國立故宮博物院 National Palace Museum

Stunning Craftsmanship in Costumes and Accessories

The techniques involved in making the ethnic costumes and accessories of Guizhou 貴州 are numerous and complex. From applying a single technique to mixing several, many diverse patterns can be created, and the results are lustrous and impressive. Be it batik dyeing, fabric embroidery, needle weaving, or silver forging, each ethnic group has developed its own unique specialty. The fineness of embroideries, the exquisiteness of batik textiles, the preciseness of needlework, and the sumptuousness of silver ornaments are all breathtakingly spectacular, attesting to the ingenuity and aesthetic tastes of the various nationalities. While the history and culture of an ethnic group differ from those of the others, the patterns on the costumes may reveal the sentiments, stories, and memories that cannot otherwise be conveyed orally or by written words. A walk through the exhibits in this section may be likened to reading the history of the development of the ethnic nationalities’ costumes and accessories from Guizhou.

Miao baby carrier from Songtao

1900-1930

Miao baby carrier from Songtao

On this Miao baby carrier from Songtao, embroidered panels are woven into the black, red, or white fabrics to create patterns of butterflies, pomegranates, and birds, and the resulting color combinations are bright and lively. As for the needlework, the flowers and grass around the main pattern are finished with the pingxiu technique, whilst the motifs in the triangle at the center are made with the nashaxiu 納紗繡 (counted stitch) and purongxiu 鋪絨繡 (floss embroidery) approaches, which are clearly influenced by the Han 漢 Chinese culture.

Department of Textiles and Clothing, Fu Jen Catholic University

Miao bainiaoyi formal attire from Xinhua, Ronjiang

1910-1930

Miao bainiaoyi formal attire from Xinhua, Ronjiang

This formal Miao bainiaoyi attire is worn on the occasion of ancestral worship during the Guzang 牯藏 Festival. Embroidered patterns of birds are found all over, which are decorated with motifs of the sun, clouds, swastikas, and anise flowers. To the hem are attached embroidered rectangle stripes, with furs and beads sewed at the tip. The pingxiu embroidery technique is applied extensively in its making, but the suoxiu approach is used in the areas forming the eyes of the birds to create a sense of hierarchy. At various panel joints the technique known as qianniaofeng 千鳥縫 (zigzag-stitch) is employed as well for colored decorations.

Department of Textiles and Clothing, Fu Jen Catholic University