The Splendor of Ethnic Costumes and Accessories from Guizhou

Emblems of Ethnicity—Costumes and Accessories of Ethnic Minorities of Guizhou

In order to retain ethnic characteristics and strengthen ethnic identity, it is common for minority groups in Guizhou 貴州 to incorporate elements from their histories, legends, beliefs, and customs into their daily apparels and accessories, and the resulting dressing cultures tend to be distinctive, rich, and diverse, becoming important emblems signifying their ethnic images and characteristics. The inheritance and uninterrupted development of the costumes and accessories of the various nationalities in Guizhou have not come about in isolation. Observing the apparels and accompanying accessories introduced in this section, the visitors are to understand that the splendor of their costumes and accessories is realized through continued interaction and cross-influence among the minority groups.

Miao formal ensemble from Shidong,Taijiang

Mid-20th century

The Miao people who wear this type of apparel are called the Hebian Miao 河邊苗 (Riverside Miao), who mostly reside in the areas along the Qingshui River 清水江, including Shidong Township in Taijiang County, Shuangjing 雙井 Township in Shibing 施秉 County, Wuhe 五河 Township in Jianhe 劍河 County, and Jinbao 金堡 in Zhenyuan 鎮遠 County. The Hebian Miao people are known for their sailing and trading skills, and for their embroidery and silver ornament manufacturing. Their embroidery is marked by the complex stitch technique known as puoxianxiu 破線繡, or embroidery done in satin stitch with split silk floss technique, and the patterns are usually spiritual, bold, and fun. This dress is also one of the Miao costumes that require a large number of accompanying silver accessories. The neck ring paoxiangquan 泡項圈, in particular, entails three pieces to go with the complete look. A silver accessory invented by the Miao people, the paoxiangquan is said to have originated from the goddess of beauty Niangx Eb Sangb 仰阿莎, who was born from the spring water bubbles of a well.

Miao woman' s formal ensemble from Suoge

Mid-20th century

The Miao people who wear this type of attire are distributed in Liuzhi 六枝 Special District and the counties of Nayong 納雍 and Zhijin 織金, belonging to the branch known as the Jing Miao 箐苗. As these Miao women tie their hair into the shape of a massive horn, local people also call them Changjiao Miao 長角苗 (Long-horn Miao). This formal ensemble comes from the Suoge Village, Suoge Township, in Liuzhi Special District. The hairstyle of the adult women there is quite distinctive. They would first use wigs about two kilograms in weight to make a bun in the ∞ shape, tie it to a wood comb with a white fur stripe, and then let it lie on the head horizontally, a practice known as daijiao 戴角, literally meaning "wearing a horn." The horn is a symbol of adulthood, and only with it can a woman attend social activities.

Young Miao girl' s embroidered ensemble with baby

carrier from Nayong County Mid-20th century

The Miao people who wear this type of costume reside mostly in the counties of Zhijin, Qianxi, and Nayong nearing the City of Bijie. As the women of this group put the wooden comb in the buns slantingly, they are also referred to as the Waishu Miao 歪梳苗 (Slanting-comb Miao). Women of the Waishu Miao are known for their skills in batik dyeing and the embroidering techniques of panxianxiu 盤線繡 (spiral-stitch), suoxiu 鎖繡 (chain-stitch), and tiaohua. The way these Miao women dress their apparels is quite unique. To wear the skirt, for example, is in fact to fold a piece of fabric at both sides of the hip. The strap in the attire shown here, for another instance, is in fact the baby carrier that unmarried teenage girls would wear as an accessory in the Huashanjieh 花山節 Festival. Usually, the Miao girls make their own baby carriers before approaching their adulthood, and will wear them on the dating occasion of Tiaohua 跳花, to imply to the boys that they are ready for courting, a practice that reflects the unique local marriage custom.

Buyei woman' s formal ensemble from Biandanshan,Zhenning

Mid-20th century

This costume comes from the Village of Biandanshan in Zhennin County, and is the formal attire for young women of the Buyei minority group. The Buyei people reside in Zhenning County of Anshun, Guanling 關嶺, Puding 普定, and Ziyun 紫雲 Counties, as well as Qinglong 晴隆 County in the Qianxinan 黔西南 Buyei and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Liuzhi Special District, Shuicheng 水城 and Pan 盤 Counties of Liupanshui City, and Weining and Zhijin Counties of Bijie City. The unwedded woman needs to comb her hair into braids and wear embroidered kerchief until married. After the wedding, the wife would live in her parents' house for a period of time, until the husband catches the wife off-guard and unties her braids. He will then put a jiake 甲殻 on the wife's head to symbolize the end of her life under parental care. From then on, the wife is expected to live with her husband. Worn with a patterned kerchief, the jiake is a dustpan-shaped bamboo hat wrapped in green cloth, and it is a mark of a woman's married status.

Dong woman' s formal ensemble from Shangzhong,Liping

Mid-20th century

The Dong people who wear this type of costume live in the villages of Wanzhai 晚寨, Pingbao 平保, Gaolu 高路 in Rongjiang County, and of Shangzhong, Gaibao 蓋保, Yangdong 洋洞, and Shunzhai 順寨 in Liping County (these villages are collectively known as the Sishiba Zhai 四十八寨, or Forty-eight Stockade Villages) of the Qiandongnan 黔東南 Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture. They also reside in such areas as Geli 格里 and Liukai 柳開 in Jianhe 劍河 County. The Dong people of the forty-eight stockade villages are usually referred to as Sishibazhai Dong 四十八寨侗. This branch of the Dong group is known for their preference for the color green on the costumes. The ensemble on view here comes from a Dong village in Shangzhong, Liping, and is worn by women during wintertime on such occasions as weddings, guest receptions, and festivals. Its cape, or yunjian 雲肩, is in a style that was popular during the Ming and Qing dynasties.

Shui woman' s wedding attire from Sandu

20th century

The Shui people who wear this type of apparel reside in Zhonghe 中和 Township of the Sandu Shui Antomous County. Intended for young girls on their wedding days, this dress can also be worn on other occasions by switching the accompanying silver accessories. The floral patterns on the costume are finished with the maweixiu 馬尾繡 (horsetail embroidery) and tiaohua techniques that Shui women are known for.

Yao woman' s ensemble from Xishan, Congjiang

Mid-20th century

The Yao minority group of Guizhou live in the townships of Xishan and Cuili 翠里 of Congjiang County, and in the adjacent Rongshui 融水 County of Guangxi. Collectively they are a branch of what is referred to as the Pan Yao 盤瑤. When young women of the Pan Yao marry, they are often seen wearing a hat made of cedar skin that is framed inside with cedar planks. This branch of the Yao minority is thus known as Dingban Yao 頂板瑤 or simply Ban Yao 板瑤 (Plank Yao). This costume comes from Xishan Township, Congjiang County. When wearing this ensemble, the Yao woman would comb her hair into a bun, and then wrap it with a black-and-white kerchief on the inside and a green kerchief on the outside.