國立故宮博物院 National Palace Museum

Stunning Craftsmanship in Costumes and Accessories

The techniques involved in making the ethnic costumes and accessories of Guizhou 貴州 are numerous and complex. From applying a single technique to mixing several, many diverse patterns can be created, and the results are lustrous and impressive. Be it batik dyeing, fabric embroidery, needle weaving, or silver forging, each ethnic group has developed its own unique specialty. The fineness of embroideries, the exquisiteness of batik textiles, the preciseness of needlework, and the sumptuousness of silver ornaments are all breathtakingly spectacular, attesting to the ingenuity and aesthetic tastes of the various nationalities. While the history and culture of an ethnic group differ from those of the others, the patterns on the costumes may reveal the sentiments, stories, and memories that cannot otherwise be conveyed orally or by written words. A walk through the exhibits in this section may be likened to reading the history of the development of the ethnic nationalities’ costumes and accessories from Guizhou.

Miao brocade baby carrier from Geyi, Taijiang

1910-1930

Miao brocade baby carrier from Geyi, Taijiang

The Miao people residing in Geyi Township are known for the brocade technique executed on their baby carriers. Using black cotton yarn as the base material, they apply and mix various colored yarn threads with the tiaozhi approach to create complex color and pattern variations. The pattern of this baby carrier is made up of the motifs of flower, bird, and butterfly, and the design emphasizes the use of the color white on the edges, accompanied by those of grey, red, green, and yellow, thereby creating a colorful and exquisite look.

Department of Textiles and Clothing, Fu Jen Catholic University

Tujia brocade quilt cover

1900-1930

Tujia brocade quilt cover

The brocade quilt cover of the Tujia group is known as the Xilan Kapu, which is considered the most important dowry for a woman. When making quilt covers, cotton threads are usually used for the warp, and silk or linen treads the weft. The jiazhi 夾織 technique with the crossing and mixing of warp and weft threads is then applied to create the patterns. As the Xilan Kapu patterns processed by the loom tend to be complex, the use of the fanzhi 反織 (purl stitch) approach is essential. The tiaozhi technique, on the other hand, is executed to create subtle linear motifs, colors, and geometric patterns.

Department of Textiles and Clothing, Fu Jen Catholic University